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WATERPROOFING

ITHACA, NY
 
A contractor installing foundation waterproofing in Ithaca, NY.

Basement Waterproofing in Ithaca, NY

  • The best way to approach any building problem is to first do the things that are easy and low cost. Then proceed in a logical order doing the next least costly technique with the most positive likely result, this is our main approach to waterproofing in Ithaca, NY.
  • With moisture problems, the best approach is almost always to remove or control the source of the moisture, not to try to stop it at the last line of defense.
  • Our expertise over many years of specific water intrusion issues, leads us in a calculated approach towards your home or business and its water problems. Reach out to us today for more information and to discuss your waterproofing needs!
A basement waterproofing contractor inspecting moisture issues in the basement of a home.

Top 5 Approaches to Solve Basement Moisture in Ithaca, NY

  • Professional moisture mitigation is different than just any water control or diversion techniques. Often times a good experienced waterproofing inspector in Ithaca, NY can spot and identify the source immediately, eliminating unnecessary and costly attempts by unqualified contractors.
  • Install proper gutters and downspouts and correct grading
  • Exterior drainage system
  • Interior drainage channel above the concrete slab
  • Interior drainage channel within the slab edge
  • Interior drainage system beneath the slab
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A crawlspace waterproofing contractor inspecting moisture and ventilation issues in the crawlspace of a property.

Average Costs for Waterproofing Services in Ithaca, NY

  • You can expect to pay, on average, between $2,500 to $18,000 for waterproofing services by a professional waterproofing company in Ithaca, NY.
  • Video Scope Inspection of Drain Lines - $300 to $600
  • Underground Downspout Extensions - $500 to $3,500
  • Foundation Soil Grading - $500 to $3,000
  • Window Well Covers - $200 to $800
  • Lawn French Drainage - $500 to $6,500
  • Exterior Footing Drain Tile - $4,000 to $18,000
  • Interior Footing Drain Tile - $2,000 to $14,000
  • Sump Crock with Pump - $1,500 to $3,000
  • Backup Waterfed Sump Pump - $800 to $2,500
  • Waterproofing Wall Board - $800 to $4,000
  • Waterproofing Crawlspace Liner - $800 to $4,000
*Cost data is based upon historical average/typical costs. Each project has unique aspects, costs will vary.
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Water being removed and waterproofed from the basement of a commercial building.

Common Areas of a Crawl Space Moisture in Ithaca, NY

  • Many homes built on crawl space foundations in Ithaca, NY suffer from poor moisture management. Excess moisture is often noticed in the humid spring and summer seasons but can occur at any time of the year.
  • Mold or moisture damage in the crawl space or living area
  • Musty odors in the living area
  • Condensation (sweating) on air conditioning ductwork or equipment
  • Condensation on insulation, water pipes or truss plates in the crawl space
  • Buckled hardwood floors
  • High humidity in the living area
  • Insect infestations
  • Rot in wooden framing members
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SOLUTIONS TO BASEMENT MOISTURE IN ITHACA, NY

  • First, the simplest and least costly techniques are to remove excessive internal moisture sources in the basement (humidifiers, cooking) and ventilate other sources (clothes dryer, bathroom). Second, if condensation in the summer is the problem, do not ventilate the basement directly with warm, humid air. Ventilation through an air conditioning system or with a desiccant-type heat exchanger is recommended.
  • Dehumidification can be used as a means of reducing the symptoms of humidity and odor in a basement, but it is not a permanent or complete solution.
  • It is appealing to solve a basement moisture problem with a membrane or coating on the inside. It is less expensive than a drainage system and seems to work for a period of time in some cases. The water is still there, however, and eventually these systems deteriorate or simply move the water to another pathway into the basement.
  • The recommended approach after removing interior moisture sources is to evaluate the gutters, downspouts, and surface grading around the building. These should be corrected first and may solve the problem. Then, if a moisture problem persists, proceed with an interior or exterior drainage system. If your goal is to finish a basement that has water problems, it is recommended to first deal with the water problem.
An active sub-slab depressurization system including a washed-rock layer below the slab is recommended. This draws moist air from beneath the slab and may help to reduce the amount of moisture vapor that enters the home through openings in the slab. It also assists in controlling radon and other soil gases. Sumps and other open connections to the soil outside the foundation and below the slab should be blocked and sealed. More information on soil gas management can be found in “Building Radon Out,” a booklet available in electronic format (PDF) from the Environmental Protection Agency.

APPROACH 1: INSTALL PROPER GUTTERS AND DOWNSPOUTS AND CORRECT GRADING
A great number of basement water problems can be solved by handling rainwater and surface drainage properly using gutters and downspouts with extenders or splash blocks to carry the water away from the foundation. Sloping the grade away from the house, which may require hauling fill to the site, is very important. This should be done before any below-grade drainage system is installed, since the above-grade corrections may solve the problem. Even if a drainage system is required, removing water at the source as much as possible is necessary.

APPROACH 2: EXTERIOR DRAINAGE IN ITHACA, NY
Installing an exterior drainage system at an existing building is the most costly, but also the most effective water control approach. This requires digging up the area around the foundation and rebuilding it similar to a new house installation. It also requires digging up shrubs and other obstacles around the house.

Usually, waterproofing and insulation are installed at the same time, in addition to making any repairs to the structure. The traditional exterior drainage systems use free-draining sand in the backfill. Drain tile can be placed beside or on top of the footing. Level drain pipe installations are satisfactory. A minimum of 12 inches of coarse aggregate should be placed around the drain tile.

Free-draining Membrane or Board
It can be expensive to haul pea rock or sand to a site for backfilling purposes. Instead, a drainage mat can be placed against the foundation wall and then backfilled with any soil on site. The drainage must have a free-flowing path to the perforated drain pipe below.

Draining to a Sump
All exterior drainage systems must drain to a sump that can be pumped out. The sump must have an airtight, childproof cover.

APPROACH 3: INTERIOR DRAINAGE CHANNEL ABOVE THE CONCRETE SLAB
In most cases when water is entering the basement, an interior drainage system is installed. The simplest and least costly approach is a drainage channel adhered at the base of the wall and the floor slab. Water is collected and drained into a sump using another channel placed on top of the slab, then through a trap to the sump basin. The sump should have an airtight, childproof cover. This system is best suited to a concrete wall with cracks. It does not solve the problem in masonry walls because water remains in the block cores at floor level and the water level is only lowered to the top of the slab. With this approach, the water is not completely removed from the space. The result is that humidity, mold, and mildew can still be a problem. This system cannot drain groundwater from under the floor slab.

APPROACH 4: INTERIOR DRAINAGE IN ITHACA, NY
Another technique is to place a drainage channel at the base of the wall on top of the footing. This requires removing and then replacing the concrete along the slab edge. The drainage channel is connected to a drain pipe leading to the sump. The sump should have an airtight, childproof cover. This approach is effective for concrete masonry walls with water problems because it drains the block cores completely. Holes must be drilled at the base of every block core to permit drainage. This may require removing more than the minimum amount of concrete, as shown, to fit the drill in. These systems have different shapes and prices depending on the product installed. Because moisture is allowed to penetrate the block cores, it is essential to cap the tops and place a vapor-retarder coating on the interior basement walls.

APPROACH 5: INTERIOR DRAINAGE SYSTEM BENEATH THE SLAB
The most effective of the interior drainage systems is a perforated drain pipe installed inside the perimeter of the footing. This requires removing and replacing concrete at the slab edge. By placing the drain pipe beneath the slab, it drains the area to a lower level. Similar to an exterior system, the drainage pipe connects to a sump. The sump should have an airtight, childproof cover. A critical component of this approach is the dimpled plastic sheeting placed at the base of the wall and beneath the slab edge. Dimpled sheeting is similar to a small egg crate and permits free drainage of the wall into the drain pipe. It is less expensive than many specialized drainage channel systems. In low permeability soils, this system cannot accept rising groundwater unless there is an aggregate layer under the slab. It is recommended that this approach be combined with an active soil gas management system that connects with the sump and perimeter drain pipe.

THE PRODUCTS BEHIND THE SOLUTION

Panels & Barriers
Ithaca Environmental offers the permanent solutions for leaking walls. Our waterproofing panels and barriers stop access moisture from entering the home. Durawall, Safewall, and Flexi-Seal are the best ways to keep your basement or crawlspace dry. Textured panels are designed as a permanent solution to water seepage by covering and sealing interior foundation walls. Panels direct water flow into any drainage system, keeping the basement interior dry. Panels are extremely durable and guaranteed not to fade, chip, peel, rot or splinter for the life of the structure. The textured surface will not support mold, mildew or other bacterial growth and cleans easily with various common household detergents.

Drains & Diverters
The water diverter establishes pathways underneath your basement/crawlspace floor to allow water to exit your building. Polydrain, Channel-Cove and System Platon are the best solutions offered by RECG for redirecting water in your home. PolyDrain uses air-gap technology to significantly increase water drainage and replacement of the foundation floor at the original thickness. Polydrain maintains a 5/8” air gap between the footer and the replacement slab. PolyDrain is laid directly onto the footer and extends over the drain system. Eliminating gravel on the footer boosts water flow by removing resistance. The drainage solution that is versatile enough to be used in exterior and interior systems. Utilizing air-gap technology, System Platon provides a permanent water and moisture barrier along the entire foundation wall. System Platon has been used in foundation protection for more than 25 years and complies with BOCA, ICBO, and SBCCI building codes. Use System Platon on the exterior to create a permanent barrier that is installed without any special crews or equipment. 100% environmentally compatible and can be installed in any weather, rain or shine, down to -20ºF. Proper drainage is what makes a basement waterproofing system successful. Ithaca Environmental, LLC drains allow substantial amounts of water flow to quickly leave the home. Quik-Flo is the highest quality drain on the market today. Quik-Flo is a low-cost alternative to traditional drain tile systems. Quik-Flo is specifically designed to be installed directly on the footer, reducing installation time by up to 50% compared to traditional drain tile systems. Corner and connector pieces maintain a continuous, high-volume drainage loop. Quik-Flo has a higher water flow capacity than standard pipe and gravel systems. Oversized water inlets eliminate clogging, even in high mineral situations. Quik-Flo is perfect for sandy soil environments where undermining the footer is a concern with traditional systems.

Ithaca, NY Sump Pumps and Backups
Whether its ¼, ½, or ¾ horsepower pumps to be installed in our factory sealed crocks, we will always want to safely secure a pumping system for your buildings protection. The Pitbull Battery Backup Pump System is always on guard against basement flooding! This energy efficient system out pumps the competition and uses less battery power. Audible alarms notify owners of power interruption or primary pump failure and can be silenced for up to 24 hours. POWER GUARD is an innovative emergency backup power station designed to provide power to a primary sump pump during a power outage. POWER GUARD provides full protection from power outages and maintains maximum pumping capacity until power is restored. POWER GUARD monitors the power line and automatically detects when a power failure occurs. The POWER GUARD provides AC power to the sump pump to maintain normal operation during the loss of power. When power is restored, POWER GUARD recharges the battery to a full capacity charge. POWER GUARD requires a 12-Volt Deep Cycle battery and is designed to work with most sump pumps.

Structure Repair
The Inforcer Foundation System™ is a pre-engineered, effective and permanent solution that restores structural integrity to a foundation wall. The Inforcer's innovative adjustable design works in any installation scenario. Bowed, sheared and tipped walls can be quickly repaired and restored with just one product. No outdoor excavation is required for most repair jobs.

CONDITION THE CRAWLSPACE IN ITHACA, NY AS IF YOU WERE GOING TO LIVE IN IT

In most areas of the U.S., sealed crawl spaces work much better than vented crawl spaces. Most building codes permit the construction of unvented crawl spaces. In the 2006 International Residential Code, requirements for unvented crawl spaces can be found in Section R408.3. If an unvented crawl spaces has a dirt floor, the code requires exposed earth to be covered with a continuous vapor retarder with taped seams: “The edges of the vapor retarder shall extend at least 6 inches up the stem wall and shall be attached and sealed to the stem wall.”

The code lists two options for conditioning unvented crawl spaces; both options require the installation of a duct or transfer grille connecting the crawl space with the conditioned space upstairs.
  • Option 1 requires “continuously operated mechanical exhaust ventilation at a rate equal to 1 cfm for each 50 square feet of crawl space floor area.” In other words, install an exhaust fan in the crawl space that blows through a hole in the rim joist or an exterior wall; make sure that the fan isn't too powerful. (The makeup air entering the crawl space is conditioned air from the house upstairs; since this conditioned air is drier than outdoor air, it doesn't lead to condensation problems.)
  • Option 2 requires that the crawl space have a forced-air register delivering 1 cfm of supply air from the furnace or air handler for each 50 square feet of crawl space area. (Assuming the house has air conditioning, this introduction of cool, dry air into the crawl space during the summer keeps the crawl space dry.)

BUILDING SCIENCE - WATERPROOFING PHILOSOPHY GUIDE

Water is our most prevalent natural resource that we all rely on every day in our existence. Water has properties that effect how we exist and live in harmony with nature. Case in point: we need water to survive; we just don’t want to live with it in our home or business. Left for periods of time, undisturbed water will destroy anything. In fact, most building materials are made with water or contain some level of water as sits in your home or business right now (i.e. concrete and wood). So often the statement applies to many things in life, we can’t stop the water; we can only hope to contain it. Waters effects to our structures can be truly devastating in acute situations: flooding, typhoons, rising tides, hurricanes, and breaching dams/rivers just to name a few, but often it is not those unexpected and extreme natural disasters that affect our everyday lives. The chronic water intrusions that lie beneath our undetected eye, often caused by human error, are the ones that create havoc on our structural buildings we occupy and rely on to protect us from the elements of nature. Structurally, water introduces problems that can create an array of issues, such as, but not limited to, foundation shifting, foundation settling, hydrostatic pressure, foundation cracking, foundation deterioration, wood rot, fungus rot, mold growth, termite/insect damage, and framing deterioration. On a health prospective, we need water to live, but so does other organic matter, microbial activity needs water to thrive, put with the right temperatures and food sources (i.e. the building materials in your building) and you have just created one the most deadly combination to comprise your indoor air quality. And it is not just water leaking or flowing into our buildings, but the problem also deals with water in the air that can go undetected causing a slow and painful result. Building or modifying a structure to be water resistant has always been a challenge that began with our forefathers and will continue long after we are gone, but the technology on new building and existing renovation activities against water have progressed so rapidly over the past ten to fifteen years, that water resistant buildings are truly a reality, no longer a hope and a prayer.

THE SCIENCE BEHIND THE PROBLEM – MOISTURE MECHANICS

Water is created of atoms that join together to form molecules. A water molecule has three atoms: two hydrogen (H) atoms and one oxygen (O) atom. Water takes form in three distinct phases or forms: solid, liquid, or gas. The water cycle or hydrologic is a continuous cycle where water evaporates, travels into the air and becomes part of a cloud, falls down to earth as precipitation, and then evaporates again. This repeats again and again in a never-ending cycle. Water keeps moving and changing from a solid to a liquid to a gas, over and over again.

Precipitation creates runoff that travels over the ground surface and helps to fill lakes and rivers. It also percolates or moves downward through openings in the soil to replenish aquifers under the ground. Some places receive more precipitation than others do. These areas are usually close to oceans or large bodies of water that allow more water to evaporate and form clouds. Other areas receive less precipitation. Often these areas are far from water or near mountains. As clouds move up and over mountains, the water vapor condenses to form precipitation and freezes.

Water activity or aw was developed to account for the intensity with which water associates with various non-aqueous constituents and solids. Simply stated, it is a measure of the energy status of the water in a system. It is defined as the vapor pressure of a liquid divided by that of pure water at the same temperature; therefore, pure distilled water has a water activity of exactly one.

WHY IS WATER ACTIVITY (AW) IMPORTANT IN BUILDING SCIENCE?

The aw scale starts from 0.0 (dry) and goes to 1.0 (pure water). Microbial growth can start as low as 0.6 aw. However, environmental molds have genera/species specific variability regarding how much water is required for their growth. Fungi that require high amounts of available water are called hydrophilic and grow at water activities above 0.90. Stachybotrys sp., Chaetomium sp., Trichoderma sp., Memnoniella sp., Acremonium sp., and Fusarium sp. are examples of hydrophilic molds. They colonize only in moisture rich, chronically moist environments. If building materials do not contain >90% (Aw >0.9) moisture content then their growth is impaired. The largest group of fungi falls in the mesophilic range. Mesophilic fungi include common indoor molds such as Cladosporium sp. and Alternaria sp. These fungi typically grow on continuously damp building materials with water activities between 0.80 and 0.90. Xerotolerant molds include Aspergillus sydowii, A. versicolor and some species of Penicillium are able to grow at water activities below 0.80 but grow optimally above this value. They are common on water-damaged materials. The final group of fungi, known as xerophilic, actually grows best at water activity ratios below 0.80. A common xerophilic fungus is Aspergillus restrictus. Building materials such as drywall and wood contain cellulose-based materials chocked full of nutrients that serve as suitable food sources for mold growth. However, unless water is present at levels presented above, mold growth will not occur. Water impact into a structure then provides the enriched moisture environment fungi need to grow. Once a building product is soaked with water without immediate drying, mold spores present on the water-laden building material, germinate and grow.

Relative Humidity & Dew Point - Not only are we dealing with water activity in direct liquid form, but as pointed out previously, water in gas form can create enough water vapor to begin mold growth or dust mites. Relative humidity is the ratio of the partial pressure of water vapor in an air-water mixture to the saturated vapor pressure of water at a prescribed temperature. The relative humidity of air depends not only on temperature but also on the pressure of the system of interest. A good range is between 30% and 60% relative humidity. You can determine humidity levels with a relative humidity sensor typically referred to as a hygrometer or psychrometer. This level of humidity minimizes the indoor growth of allergenic or pathogenic organisms such as dust mites and molds.

The dew point is the temperature below which the water vapor in a volume of humid air at a constant barometric pressure will condense into liquid water. Condensed water is called dew when it forms on a solid surface. The dew point is a water-to-air saturation temperature. The dew point is associated with relative humidity. A high relative humidity indicates that the dew point is closer to the current air temperature. Relative humidity of 100% indicates the dew point is equal to the current temperature and that the air is maximally saturated with water. When the dew point remains constant and temperature increases, relative humidity decreases.
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